1. Correctly cut your product. It is imperative to position the part, taking into account the direction of the grain thread (on the fabric, the grain thread is parallel to the edge of the fabric, i.e. place the part along the grain thread), otherwise, when stuffing your product, a distortion will occur, and this is unacceptable.

2. Sew your product. You can sew the product on a typewriter using step 1-2, or manually using a back stitch. Be sure to leave a hole for turning. It must be left in the most inconspicuous place, if it is the head, then in the place where the hair is attached; if hands, then from the side of the elbows; if this is the torso, then in the place where the legs are attached. And not in clearly visible places, it spoils the whole view, and you have to hide it all with something.

3. Turn your product inside out. Before turning your product inside out, it is necessary in all places where there are bulges, such as a spout, fingers, etc., to make an incision 2 mm short of the seam itself, so that later when stuffing in these places there are no wrinkles. When everything is done, you can start turning. Someone uses a special twister, and I use tweezers, sometimes I use a sushi stick or a pencil. To twist narrow arms and legs, I use a stick and a wide tube. To do this, I insert a tube into the inside of the sewn handle or leg, and with reverse side I begin to insert the stick into the tube, after which I drag the fabric from the tube to the stick and the product is turned inside out.

4. Product stuffing. It is necessary to stuff the product tightly enough so that there are no wrinkles anywhere. The ends of the legs and arms are stuffed tightly up to the elbow or knee than the rest. It is necessary to stuff the limbs in small pieces, otherwise the effect of cellulite is obtained. The head and neck should also be stuffed tightly. There is usually a problem with the neck, if it is not stuffed correctly, it is all in creases, it looks very ugly. If suddenly it doesn’t work to fill your neck well, you can go for a trick. For the neck, you can use toothpicks tied together and wrapped with synthetic winterizer or holofiber equal to the diameter of the doll's neck, you can use spools of thread, they are perfect in size. As for tilde snails, there is a problem with the house. The denser the house is packed and the smaller the gap between the curl, the better. Again, I repeat, there should not be creases and wrinkles. After everything is stuffed using the "Flush Stitch" to sew up all the holes, the smaller the stitch, the less noticeable it will be.

5. Stitching the product. We sew everything together with a hidden seam.

6. Hair. For hair, you can use threads, wool. I pin almost all hairstyles with a felting needle, regardless of whether it is wool or thread. It turns out very neat and quite durable.

I also want to pay a little attention to painting attic dolls. Attic toy, this is a figurative name, as if it is very old, forgotten found in the attic.

I use this recipe: 2h. l. coffee + 2 hours l. cocoa +1h. l. cinnamon + 2 hours l. PVA+100ml. boiling water. I pour all the ingredients, except PVA, into a container and pour boiling water over it, mix well, and only then add PVA and mix thoroughly again. Before proceeding with painting, it is necessary to allow the solution to settle for 5-7 minutes. Now you can start painting, someone paints with a brush, I use a dishwashing sponge. In order to avoid stains, it is necessary to start painting the fabric itself with an almost barely damp sponge, but if the filler gets wet, there will be stains and streaks. After painting, while the carcass is damp, I take vanillin and pour it directly on the carcass and rub it. You can dry the toy in the air, or you can speed up the process and dry it in the oven. I dry in the oven then the smell is the most intense. I use the most low temperature. It is better to dry in a suspended state, it is necessary to avoid contact with other toys, otherwise stains will remain. If drying on a baking sheet, then under the toy you need to lay several sheets of office paper. 3-5 minutes is enough for drying, but it is better to make sure that it does not burn. Well, it seems to be all. Sorry for no photos, but I think it's clear enough. Hope these tips are helpful to you. A small addition, the fabric for tildes can be tinted yourself. This requires 1.5 liters. water + 1st. l. salt + 25-30 gr. coffee. Boil water and add coffee + salt. After thorough mixing, we immerse a white cloth there and cook on low heat for 10-15 minutes. with constant stirring, so that the fabric is evenly dyed. After that, rinse lightly in cold water, then wring out the fabric, straighten it and hang it out to dry, avoiding creases and sagging of the fabric. Then, when the fabric is slightly dry, but still damp, iron it on both sides. Now the fabric is ready to go.

This does not mean that you need to do it only this way and not otherwise, that there are no other ways and tricks when sewing a rag doll, each master has his own. I told you about mine. I wish you all creative mood and good luck.

Today I want to talk about how to make a doll with your own hands. I'll tell you about soft dolls from fabric - even a child is able to cope with the manufacture of such a toy, and the result looks simply charming.

What are textile dolls? There are cloth dolls for a long time, at first they were of a ritual nature, then they became amulets, and finally they moved into the category of interior decorations and children's toys.

You can divide the pupae according to the style of manufacture:

• sewn dolls;
• motanki.

You can also divide the pupae according to the shape of the body:

• sedentary;
• standing;
• recumbent (they have a soft body, it is difficult to seat them).

And of course pupae can be divided according to appearance- I will talk about this later, so as not to write one by one.

Different variants

How to make a rag doll with your own hands? There are a variety of rag dolls with your own hands, but in general you need to stock up:

• fabric for making the body, face and limbs of the pupa - it can be fabric, yarn, nylon and even paper (some make the head of the doll from papier-mâché, and the body from fabric);
• stuffing material (cereals, foam rubber, cotton wool, fabric scraps, polystyrene foam in balls or holofiber);
• yarn or thread for making hairstyles;
• beads, special eyes;
• needles and threads;
• knitting supplies (you will need doll clothes, and it is very easy to knit them);
• cardboard, artificial and Genuine Leather, various elements for making accessories for dolls.

Tilda and varieties

Tilda is the most famous soft doll, and most often they are made by beginners. These dolls were designed by a girl from Norway, Tone Finnanger. These are long simple dolls, they have simple faces - pink cheeks, beady eyes. A whole industry has developed around this doll, making animals and accessories. There are many books and master classes on how to sew a doll with your own hands. See how beautiful Tildas are, and how you can make bunnies and cubs in this style.

By the way, if you need a doll pattern in this style, then there is nothing easier - here are a few patterns that are suitable for creating from fabric.

For a long time I wanted to make MK according to my doll) I started several times, then I got involved in the process and forgot to take pictures

But now I will definitely do it!

So, girls, for starters, we need a desire)))))) Without it, nothing is done)

For work: sewing machine, where are we without it) if there is none, then we stock up on patience, a needle and thread)

Scissors, pins, marker or chalk, thread)

Haven't forgotten anything? well then start)

cut it out)

The fabric for the body of the dolls is cotton, you can choose linen, calico, only the calico should be dense, otherwise the seams will spread.

So ... we chose a fabric, we glue fleselin on the inside ...

We transfer our pattern to the fabric, I use a disappearing marker in my work....

Fold the fabric in half!

Then we sew along the contour ....

We sew rounded places slowly, I scroll the wheel by hand)

Leave small holes for turning.

Cut out our workpiece

In places with folds, we cut the fabric so that folds do not form.

Oh, I forgot about the legs) The size of the foot is adjustable for shoes, because the sizes are different, I had to cut it off a little.

We apply, so that the seams match, fasten with a pin.

We turn it out very carefully! So that the seams do not crawl.

Ironing

Then we stuff it with sintepuh, very tightly, so that there would be no cellulite and creases.

If you can’t fill it evenly, you can resort to using needles)

Stuff the carcass tightly, then fasten the synthetic fluff with needles as in the photo.

We fill the handles to the middle, then we make the assembly, tighten it with a thread, we get a fold. We stuff the handle to the end.

We stuff the legs very tightly! It depends on whether the doll will stand) or I will give in and bend my legs))))))

The remaining holes are sewn up with a hidden seam!

Ufff, well, the most tedious stage is passed

Now you can assemble the doll! We don’t sew anything yet) I attached the arms / legs with pins)

This will be in the 2nd part of the MK.

There we will dress her, comb her hair and draw a face))))))))))))))

Drawing a face for Sophie...

I want to say that I myself studied in various MKs, at first I didn’t come out with anything, I spoiled a lot of carcasses, but I didn’t give up)

I think it's pretty good now.)

Let's start.....

We will need acrylic paints for textiles, paper, a pencil, scissors and brushes, and we also need a dry cloth to wipe off excess paint, cilia and glue.

The first thing I do is a sketch of the face, determine the size of the eyes and lips.

Secondly, I make eye stencils, without them I can’t get symmetrical eyes. Drawn, cut out, tried on on the head) Came up? Great!

So we fasten them with a pin and circle with a pencil!

Paint over the eye with white acrylic paint, I do it in several layers, I let each layer dry ..

We do all this with a semi-dry brush.
We draw a nose, sponges, whoever has difficulty, can also be done using a stencil)

With a dry brush, draw shadows over the upper eyelid, eyebrows, blush)

Now glue on the eyelashes.

For this we need a glue moment, I have a transparent gel.

We measure the length, cut it off, apply glue ... and it turns out beauty)))))))

By the way, for gluing eyelashes, I help myself with tweezers, it’s more convenient)

Here is such a cutie came out)

Well, here we have reached the most interesting moment - dressing up our doll)

I never get what I originally intended) the image is always supplemented and changed in the course of work) Sometimes I don’t even know what the result will be))))))))

But then I didn’t retreat) The result makes me happy, I hope you like it too)

Well? Shall we start?

We stopped at the assembly of the doll ...

There are many photos under the cut.

On the Internet I found excellent examples of how to sew arms / legs

I think everything is clear here)

To sew the legs evenly and the doll stood confidently, I do this:

1. I have my big needle, without it I am like without hands)

I put the legs on the same level and evenly string them on the needle)

2. I mark the places of punctures with a disappearing marker.

3. Then I combine everything with the carcass

I sew as shown in Fig. Number 3

So, our doll stands confidently. Now we begin to dress her slowly!

The first thing I sew from clothes is panties. I love polka dots)

I decided to show this method, because often there are small pieces that are a pity to throw out, but there seems to be nowhere to use them (So we have 4 pieces of fabric.

1. We transfer the pattern to the fabric, fold it with another cut)

2. we sew in the center of the pants to the middle .... as in the photo.

when unrolled it looks like this

We sew. Then we tuck the bottom and top, we sew them. Sew lace along the bottom. (Upper photos)

Then we sew between the legs ....

We twist, iron.
We put on pantaloons)

We take a rectangle of the width and length you need. We hem the top and bottom + I also sewed lace.

Then we gather the top, tighten it, put it on the doll. Sew it on.

By this principle, I did all the skirts.

I decided to make a blouse and wide linen lace, we have it about 10 cm.

The lace was white - I don’t want that) We need to age it ....

For this we need warm water, coffee and cinnamon...

We take coffee, depending on that. What shade do you want...

I don’t need dark, I poured 2 teaspoons ... cinnamon on my eye)

Soak the lace for a few seconds, and take it out.

We leave it to dry. The lace has acquired a yellowish tint, there are small stains and a pleasant aroma)

Here is another board how to dye the fabric and what shade will come out)

We try on the doll, find the right option and sew it on.

Decorate with buttons.

Now the sleeves.... got a little carried away and did not photograph part of the work.

First, we measure the sleeve size (length and width) by hand. We transfer the sleeve pattern to the fabric.

We sew. We put on a hand. Decorate with lace if you like.

By the same principle, I make the upper sleeve - a flashlight. But I make it much wider, so that I can pick it up at the bottom.

But first we sew the arms, as well as the legs (thread fastening)

After the hands are in place, we mask the button under our puffy sleeve.

So...now everything is in place....

other than the head)

We sew it with a hidden seam, very tightly)

After the head sits firmly in its place, proceed to the hairstyle.

Hair special for dolls. Curls)

I unravel them, divide them into small bunches and sew them in rows over the head.

It turns out very cool)

Hair can be styled as you wish)

That seems to be all.)

Decorate, add details to our doll!

The result makes me very happy)

I hope I could help you)

Today I will tell and show how to sew an interior doll. I know that there are a lot of master classes on such dolls. But each master has his own techniques and his own tailoring features.
In this master class, I tried to tell in great detail how I do it. I think that such material is suitable even for beginners with no experience. So let's get started.


What we need:
Sewing machine.
Knitwear for the body, interlining, cotton, jersey for clothes.
Shoes for a doll, a hat for a doll, hair tresses.
Threads are white and beige, needles.
Filler - synthetic winterizer and synthetic winterizer. You can only sintepon, if you do not find sintepuh.
Large (long) needle for sewing on arms and legs.
Glue is transparent.
Invisibility needles or safety pins.
Scissors.
So, the first and most important thing is the pattern.
There she is.

For sewing the torso, you will need knitwear. You can buy knitwear that almost does not stretch. It is most often found under the name "White Angel". For my work I use the simplest knitwear from a fabric store. In order for it not to stretch too much, I glue it with interlining. I glue the fabric from the inside, except for the place where the head will be. I fold and cleave facing each other, outline the pattern, stitch, cut and turn inside out. Details are not completely stitched together. There are places for eversion and a place where the ball for the head is inserted. The next picture shows - where there are gaps, we do not sew the fabric.

Here's what happens in the end.

Highly important point! We cut out the body parts with zigzag scissors. If you don’t have them, then we cut them out with ordinary ones and be sure to make small notches at the folds, for example, on the neck. We just take this cut edge and carefully, not reaching the seam of a couple of millimeters, we cut it.
After we have flashed all the details, we need to modify the legs. We take the leg, fold it around the foot, as in the photo (seam to seam) and draw a rounded line.

We sew along this line. Cut out. Here's what we should get.

We turn out the details with a wooden stick.

Let's get to the head. We will need a foam ball 8 mm in diameter. We cut out a circle from the padding polyester, such that it completely covers the ball, if it is wrapped.

We wrap the ball and put it in the head through the space that is not sewn on top.

My dolls with a nose. If you do not want to make a nose for your doll, then you can skip the next step. For the spout, we need a safety pin with a bead at the end, a piece of padding polyester, thread and glue. So, let's take a pin. Apply glue to the tip of the plastic bead. Wrap with a strip of synthetic winterizer. Then we fold this roll on a bead in half. We tie a thread around the base of this ball. Here's what it looks like:
Necessary strip of synthetic winterizer.

A roll wrapped around an invisibility.

We folded this roll in half and wrapped it at the base with a thread.

We outline on the face with an invisibility where we will have a nose.

Gently move the fabric aside and at the place where the needle enters the ball, insert our nose, and remove the invisibility.

Sew up the top of the head.

Now the most responsible and difficult moment is the neck. For the neck you will need a wooden stick. I use Chinese chopsticks. I cut them off and sharpen the end. You can use wooden skewers, but they are more brittle. I had a situation that such a skewer broke when I inserted it into the ball. You will also need a strip of synthetic winterizer and glue.
We cut a strip of synthetic winterizer in a width equal to the length of the stick before sharpening, and the length is such that when rolled up, the neck coverage is approximately.

Lubricate the stick with glue and, starting from the end, roll up the padding polyester with a roll around the stick - like a carpet. Here is what you should get.

Carefully insert this roller into the body through the lower unsewn hole and prick our ball on the tip of the stick. I’ll make a reservation right away that for a beginner it can be difficult to immediately make a beautiful neck. With experience it gets better and better.

We stuff the torso with sintepuh. Gently, in small pieces. We help ourselves with a wooden stick. If you do not have synthetic down, then you can use a synthetic winterizer, tearing and fluffing it into small pieces.

Stuff the neck first with a stick. We try to align everything so that there are no bumps.

After the neck turned out to be even and neat, you can already stuff the body without a stick, with your hands. A very important point! The stuffing should be very dense, tight. This is necessary in order for our doll to stand later. This applies to the torso, and arms, and legs. Don't rush, use small pieces. Large pieces give the so-called cellulite - not a smooth surface of the doll.

We sew the bottom.

We fill the arms and legs in the same way. There is no way to do without a wand. Tip: put your feet in boots first, and then stuff them. You can do this again with a stick. We put it in the leg and put it in the boot. And then we stuff. This will help the foot not deform during stuffing and take the shape of the shoe. Sew up the openings of the arms and legs.

Let's get to the clothes. Cut out pantaloons. We take fabric. Lay facing each other. We draw our pattern on the fabric. Sew top and bottom. And then sew the top side seams. Like this:

We unfold and sew the bottom seams so that we get panties.

We twist and put on the legs through the top. Like this.

Further, for work, we need strong threads, a long needle, buttons, a thimble and pliers.

Insert the body between the legs. We fix with safety pins, and better, if any, with long needles. And we sew by button fastening the legs to the body. It's like this:

That is, you insert the needle into one leg and stitch it through the torso to the other leg. At the same time, sew on each side through the buttons.

We put on pants. We collect them from behind and sew them to the calf. If they turned out to be too wide on the leg, then they can be picked up on a thread and sewn to the legs.

We sew a dress. It will consist separately of the top, skirt and sleeves. We sew the upper part. To do this, we need to measure the girth of the torso in the waist area and the height of this upper part. The following photos show that my girth turned out to be 21 cm, and the height is 7.5 cm. For the allowance, add 0.5 cm in width and 2 cm in height.

So, we need to cut out a rectangle 21.5x9.5 cm.
And hem it on a typewriter on both sides in width. Like this.

Then we make tucks on both sides. To do this, we apply our cut to the body, wrap it around and outline for ourselves the fold of the fabric. You can first draw a line and sweep it by hand. Sew one side. We do not sew to the end, since along the bottom we have the length that we need. And it doesn't need to be reduced.

We apply again to the body and in the same way outline the excess on the second side, which must be removed into the tuck. We are sewing. We apply to the body, fasten with pins and carefully sew the two halves at the back. The top part looks like this:

Front view:

We sew a skirt. Everything is simple here. From the waist, measure the length of the skirt you need. Please note that if the skirt is fluffy, then it will look shorter. We cut out a rectangle equal in width to your skirt length + 2 cm for allowances, and as long as you want. The more, the more magnificent. For this doll, I made a length of 45 cm. If one piece of fabric is missing, then two can be sewn. So, cut out, hemmed the edges, and then sewed it into one circle. Gathered with a thread along the length and tightened on the belt. Then they sewed it straight to the calf. Like this:

I have this petticoat. Skirt on top. I made it into folds. The technology is the same. Sewn on by hand.

Down you can put on a tulle skirt for pomp. On the belt in order to hide the seam, you can glue or sew on braid or lace. You can decorate the dress in any other way. Go ahead, show your imagination :)
I make a jacket from knitwear, but you can use cotton and jeans. In this example, I used jersey and cotton as a lining fabric. We cut the fabric facing each other. We draw a pattern. We do not stretch to the end. We turn it through the hole and sew it by hand.

We attach our jacket to the doll and fix it with pins. Sew it in the center. Decorate with a button or something else. You can not sew, then it will not be buttoned on the doll.

On a small rectangular piece of knitwear, we sew the bottom. We chip off the face and draw the sleeves. I place the pens on the fabric and mark where the sleeve should go.

Sew, twist and put on hands.
We sew the arms in the same way as the legs, using a button mount.

The last step is hair. Hair can be made from artificial wefts or from natural sheep curls. You can also use yarn or wool for felting. Today I will tell you how to make hair from tresses.
What we need is wefts, transparent glue, or a needle and thread, safety pins, a comb.
There are two options. The first is to glue the wefts with glue, the second is to sew with threads. For beginners, I recommend the second option. It is easier. I'll show you how to glue the wefts.
Draw a line around the head with a simple pencil. Squeeze out a small layer of glue along this line.

We apply the base of the wefts to this layer and fix it with pins. The pins are only needed for a few seconds for the glue to set. When I glue the second row, I already pull out the pins from the first.

Then, in the same way, we squeeze out another layer of glue next to it and glue another row. You don't need to cut your hair. This is done in a spiral.
In the same way, the third row, etc. Until the tress is over. It turns out like this.

You can sew the wefts with threads to the head in the same way in a spiral. It's a little longer, but hands will be clean from glue :)
We draw eyes with acrylic paint and blush the cheeks with ordinary blush.

Gift to a first grader? How about a hand-sewn textile doll? Such a gift will become symbolic not only for a girl going to first grade, but also for a graduate.

For sewing the body, a piece of thick knitwear measuring approximately 50 x 40 cm was used. We print the proposed pattern on a printer or redraw it by attaching a sheet of paper to a computer monitor.

We transfer all the details to the knitwear, except for the wedges. They are cut out of white calico or chintz in the amount of 6 pieces. We sew them together, leaving a small hole in the center. We sew on a typewriter along the contour. We leave small holes (1-1.5 cm each), through which we will turn the blanks and stuff them with filler in the future.

You can turn out the details with a sushi stick. It is also convenient for her to fill the details with holofiber or padding polyester.

On a ball sewn from wedges and tightly stuffed with a filler, we put on a close-fitting, tighten the top.

On the opposite side, we make a recess in the filler, where we push the knitted "process".

Insert the neck into this hole. To fix it, you can drop a little Moment glue on it or fix it with a thread, connecting it to the top of the head. We connect the joint of the neck with the head with a hidden seam.

We fix the legs to the body with pins, make sure that they are attached at the same level. Then we sew them through the body through the buttons. This fastening allows the finished doll to plant, turn her legs and arms.

We sew tights from an adult sock. To do this, we cut off the toe part of the product, cut it in half, grind the sections.

Next, sew for the doll school uniform. Since the future “first-grader” will still not be playful, but mostly interior, then her dress will be non-removable. Only four parts are needed - two sleeves, a bodice and a hem.

We first draw an approximate pattern of the bodice on paper, apply it to the body, adjust it in circumference and height. For the hem, we cut out a strip of about 6 x 30 cm in size from the fabric, trim the top cut.

We apply the handles to the fabric, draw around the contour, so we get blanks for the manufacture of sleeves.

We connect the bodice and hem, process the sections, you can immediately sew in the neck Bertha.

On the back we sew a vertical cut. We also sew lace on the sleeves, put them on the handles.

Now you can fix them on the body. With a long needle with a double thread we pass through the body, we grab the handles only through their inner part.

We sew a white apron using lace, braid or plain white chintz.

At the next stage, we create a hairstyle on the head of the pupa. In this master class, tresses with artificial hair one meter long were used. Instead, you can use wool for felting, thread for knitting, satin ribbon, foamiran, etc.
Sewing on wefts starts from the bottom of the head and is performed along its entire circumference.

First, you can fix the hairs on the Moment glue, and sew them on for reliability. From the remaining piece of tresses 8-10 cm long, we form a bundle, insert it into a small hole at the crown.